SS15 La Strada per CABIRIA and Cabiria Collections

February 17, 2012

Next round, coming up - this time with finesse!

Hi folks!

I know I've been very slow to post and report lately, but there's been movement on the Cabiria front, I promise.

As you saw before, dear readers, I hit a bit of a snag with my plans in Bangkok. When I came back to New York, the extraordinarily talented Michael David Bevins extended technical help my way through his company 4 Seasons Fashion. I'm diligently working away on patterns now, with a real class act providing the art of finesse. Such heartening news!

In the meantime, I leave you with this image from "Mad Men", returning to television in a few weeks. I am obsessed with border prints and the magic that they can do for any figure, slim or plus. Discuss.


Here's to new updates faster, sooner, and with more new dresses!

-Eden

January 21, 2012

Lessons Learned are Part of the Process

Hi folks!

I'm back from Thailand, and it was a fantastic trip as a vacation. It was disappointing as a samplemaking venture, however. The head of the shop and I tried very hard to come to an understanding, but there were issues, so it's back to the drawing board for the patterns, literally.

One of the things I've found fascinating about starting this business is that it teaches me that failing in one path is not necessarily a "failure", per se, but an opportunity to learn more about what to do differently in the future. For instance, I've learned that I know more about the patterns than I thought, and I know better how to guide the next patternmaker. I know that the control lost in working with another country, even if I'm standing there trying to explain it, is not the style of work that I've become accustomed to, and quality is lost, so don't try it that way. That second guessing myself is not good as a leadership model. Cool! I got schooled.

I also found a store in Chiang Rai in the north that sells only Plus Sizes, and has the cutest sign! It really is called "XXL", and the lady who owns it, Plooey, is super sweet.


I'm lucky that I have the resources of many friends already in the fashion business to draw upon, and most of them are in New York already. While in Bangkok, I did reconnect with an old college friend who's doing incredibly well with her own fashion brand, chain of stores, diffusion lines, restaurants attached to the retail stores, and soon, a boutique hotel! Her advice to me was indispensable, mostly because she showed me that it's possible to go the independent route and succeed wildly.

If you're in Bangkok, or now Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam, please check out her stores called It's Happened To Be A Closet [sic]. They are a mainstream size line, but very easy to wear, and great design. Kind of like an Asian version of Anthropologie.

Finally, if you ever get to go to Thailand, north or south, you're sure to be inspired. The colors and beauty there are breathtaking, and definitely gave me a refreshing outlook on what's possible next for Cabiria!


Back to New York and back to work on Cabiria. It really is a fascinating process, and will come to fruition, I promise!

-Eden

December 16, 2011

Moving forward, one step at a time

Hello friends!

I'm going to be leaving for Thailand in about a week, so I'll be the errant blogger again. However, I am definitely having patterns and first samples made in Bangkok, and I'm extremely thrilled about that. Finally!

I've also been getting extraordinary tips and guidance from wonderful folks who've been in fashion longer than I have. The talented Michael Bevins has been kind enough to steer me towards his team of patternmakers and production facilities here in New York, and both Carl Goldberg of Cego Custom Shirts and Carelli Costumes have also chipped in brain power and resources. I'm a lucky designer indeed!

I'm still trying to figure out how to format a MailChimp newsletter, which they SAY is easy, but it's not my great skill. If anyone wants to help me with that, I'd be ever so grateful. Let me know!

One other great boon about doing all the samples and patterns now is that I'll be putting together both the Spring/Summer samples and Fall/Winter samples, so there's no lag time. Thinking ahead!

Plus, I get to wear pretty dresses this winter, too, like this one:





Everything is coming together, slowly, slowly, then BOOM! It all happens!

-Eden

November 27, 2011

Bangkok bound!

Hi all,

I have been an errant blogger, I know. So many things were happening in PersonalLand, that it made it hard to stay on top of the demands of a hungry blog audience. I am back now, though!

So the current news is that I will be going to Thailand in December and January, and while there, I'll be working with a wonderful Thai costume shop called Siam Costumes to build my patterns and first samples. They have experience working with vintage clothing cut for modern bodies, and a backstock of period fabrics as well. I'm really excited!

I still plan to manufacture the production line in the US, but there's just no way I could resist master cutters working on my samples while I ride elephants and give monkeys cocoanuts. Truly.

In other news, I'm also going to work on the Fall Winter 12/13 patterns and samples at the same time. This way, no matter what season we end up launching, Cabiria will be ready to go running into production. How exciting!

With that in mind, here's a dress, sans fabric, from the FW12/13 collection. You, my readers, are the first to see it!


There are many changes afoot, and I think the new approach will better serve my vendors and customers in the long run. Making plans then completely remodeling them seems to be in the air lately, but it's all good stuff!

Let me know what you all think, and I'll try to be more diligent on that blog posting thing!

-Eden

October 9, 2011

Re/Dress, Salon Z, and Deserving Good Things

Hi folks!

I just got back from an evening workshop at Re/Dress in Brooklyn - a space that has provided both fat community and amazing vintage and resale fashion in true plus sizes these last 3 years. Glenn Marla and Hana Malia led some wonderful exercises about exploring what it would be to let go of a lot of internalized fatphobia, and I was reminded again how lucky we've been to have Deb Malkin's amazing store these last several years.

Here's a photo of Glenn and I at Re/Dress in 2009:

Sadly, the physical store is closing November 20th, and with it goes the community space she provided in which to be fat and gloriously, fearlessly fashionable. The same week this information was released, news that Saks Fifth Avenue is removing ALL Salon Z plus size sections from it's stores to an online only model. Another venue where the economy is partially at fault, but marginalized selling floors and inconsistencies in quality (as in the quality across the price point is NOT equal to similar price points in mainstream sizing) are the real culprits.

As a fat person with money to spend on clothes (ok, theoretical money right now, but hey), I still say there's a market there for well made, comparable quality at comparable price point clothing. Hearing all the women at the workshop talk about the internalized sociological shame we all work very hard to combat during waking moments, no wonder we're tired. All that energy just geared towards facing the world, facing the fear, and facing what we're told we don't deserve.

I can't wait to change that and let all women feel entitled to inhabit whatever body they have gracefully and beautifully. I can't wait to show a woman my size (18 - 20, for the record) how nice Italian silk jersey feels on the skin, and how different that feeling is from polyester or rayon. How good fabric pays for itself by not needing to be replaced after a few wearings because it's pilled badly or the high spandex content is deteriorating. How a fashionable item can remain a staple in your closet if you feel confident wearing it time and time again.

Wish me luck, people. It's rough out there, but I've got some great role models.

-Eden

October 6, 2011

Heads and Tails

Hello all,

This past few weeks has been interesting, for certain. I found out that I'm a pretty good patternmaker in my own right, but unfortunately I had to learn that by reviewing the work of the professionals I'd contracted to make some of the patterns and realized they'd been done all wrong. Please note! Werkstatt did NOT end up doing my patterns - they are far more professional and couture for me to have been able to handle, and I am in no way implying that they messed up. I have not worked with them - merely met them in their immaculate studio.

I sprained my wrist pretty badly, which has been making drafting the patterns challenging, and working on the financials, which I definitely could use a hand on, but I am trucking along. I'm the little engine that could.

One thing to remember in the face of all this, though, is that trouble comes and goes, but you can rely on yourself to pull on through in the end. I believe in me, and I am very fortunate to have a lot of others who do too.

Have a glorious few weeks until I post again. I know - I really need to be more diligent with that! In the meantime, I leave you with an image that seems to explain my life a lot lately:

September 17, 2011

Pattermakers, Accountants, and Other Fun Updates

Hey there folks!

It's been a few weeks, and there have been some new combinations afoot. One of the things I'd done was learn Adobe Illustrator, at least the basics, so I could make flats of my garments for the patternmaker. Since I seem to do everything from the ground up, I'll happily share my flat plus size template for drawing out clothing on a truly plus size figure:


There were many like this available in mainstream sizes, but of course, like with so much in the plus size world, I found none so I drew that one myself. You like?

I've also changed patternmakers - while Werkstatt is a wonderful resource and she is obviously a talented patternmaker, it wasn't the perfect fit. I did manage to track down the patternmaker and samplemaker I'd worked with over a decade ago, when we were at Lucy Barnes (now wholesale private sales only). When I designed the line and envisioned the quality, it was always with this woman's craftsmanship in mind, so it's pretty genius to get her on board.

Finally, I've been reworking the business plan. I'd always thought of starting up with crowdsource funding and using that collateral to gain business loans, but now I'm trying to research what options are available with business partners and shared equity. I'm a workhorse, but I don't know everything about business and accounting, so finding someone gifted in the arena would be amazing. If you, dear readers, know of anyone who would be interested in contributing knowledge, resources, or/ and funds to bring Cabiria to market for love and profit, please contact me. I'm very open minded!


Monday begins a new phase of development, and hopefully my next posts will be about finding wonderful size 18/20 models in the New York area soon!

-Eden